Friday, September 5, 2014

Saturday, September 6, Irkutsk


The Angara River flows out of Lake Baikal and through Irkutsk.
 Irkutsk!  We are in Irkutsk, snuggled into a really lovely hotel – the Marriott in Irkutsk – nicely-located near the Angara River, center of town.  Temperature is 40 degrees this morning and it is cloudy.  Winter is near. (always capitalized here in Siberia).

Trans-Siberian Railroad and Baikal – Yesterday we experienced a bucket-list two-fer.  Haven’t you always wanted to ride the Trans-Siberian Railroad?  And see Lake Baikal?  Sure you have.  We set it up so the group could do both.  Ulan Ude and Irkutsk are only 150 miles or so apart, but the southern part of Lake Baikal is a lumpy obstacle, and it took the train about 7 hours to make it from one city to the other.

 
Lake Baikal as seen from the Trans-Siberian Railroad.  Yes, it
is electric but those locomotives are incredibly powerful, pulling
the train up some incredibly-steep grades.  Kind of looks like Monterey
Bay, yes?  Someone in the group said she was expecting to see
a whale jump...

The nice thing about this stretch of the Trans-Siberian is that is affords interesting view and landscape its entire 150 mile length.  No endless birch trees or taiga.  This is the best stretch of the entire Trans-Siberian RR in my humble opinion.  And it includes our first look at Lake Baikal.

OK, I’ll be honest.  My first viewing of Lake Baikal in 1986 and this one in 2014 were both a bit of a let-down.  If you didn’t know better, for those of us living on Monterey Bay, it looks like, well, Monterey Bay – there is even a “Monterey Peninsula” thrown into the view on the far shore.  Some Russians refer to Baikal as a sea because it really looks like one.  There’s little for the eye or mind to provide a rest – a huge expanse of water – all of it fresh.  By contrast, Lake Hovsgol in Mongolia where we spent some idyllic days last week, is much more human scaled.  You can hike up a hill behind it and see most of it.  Baikal is huge. 
 
Our car attendant Tatyana in her souvenir selling persona.  She was
all business and tough when acting as a conductor, but laughing and
giggling when she came around with her souvenir array.  Here she holds
a coffee mug with Lake Baikal on it.  If someone in the group tries to tell you
that they went to a lot of trouble to buy that mug, well....
 
We’re going out on it today.  Gonna eat some Baikal fish and hell, maybe somebody in the group will jump in like happened in 1986!

All’s well here and despite some pretty rigorous travel and suitcase schlepping, the group is fine.